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Christopher Menz reviews The English and Australian Cookery Book by Edward Abbott
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Contents Category: Cookery Books
Custom Article Title: Christopher Menz reviews 'The English and Australian Cookery Book' by Edward Abbott
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Given the deluge of cookery books and unrelenting television programs, it is hard to imagine a time when there wasn’t a single Australian cookery book. This year marks the sesquicentenary of the first: The English and Australian Cookery Book, a volume published anonymously in London, and compiled by ‘An Australian Aristologist’, Edward Abbott. Abbott (1801–69) was born in Sydney and by 1818 was working in Hobart. He became a newspaper proprietor, establishing the Hobart Town Advertiser in 1839, and a member of the Tasmanian House of Assembly (1864–65) and the Legislative Council (1864–86). It was during his political career that he prepared and published this volume.

Book 1 Title: The English and Australian Cookery Book
Book Author: Edward Abbott
Book 1 Biblio: The Culinary Historians of Tasmania, $75 hb for pair
Book 1 Author Type: Author
Book 2 Title: The English and Australian Cookery Book Companion: 1864–2014 Sesquicentenary Edition
Book 2 Author: Edward Abbott
Book 2 Biblio: The Culinary Historians of Tasmania $75 hb for pair, 9780646907017
Book 2 Author Type: Editor
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Until now, access to Abbott’s complete work has been difficult. This most elegantly produced facsimile edition is supported by a complementary volume of essays on a range of Abbott-related themes that cover the production of this new edition, a biographical sketch, and his work in context. Michael Symons and Barbara Santich, who have done so much to enlarge our historical and social understanding of Australian culinary history, are key contributors, and it is Santich who best describes Abbott’s volume ‘as a compilation of recipes and culinary advice, interspersed with dining anecdotes and other ephemera’. His book draws on a range of sources, mostly English, but there are directions for preparing kangaroo, emu, wombat, mutton birds, and other Australian fauna. The notes and sources for these dishes are as fascinating as the recipes themselves. How appealing they are is another matter. The recipe for ‘Slippery Bob’– in which kangaroo brains are mixed with flour and water into a batter, seasoned, and dropped by the spoonful into emu fat – contains the warning that it requires ‘a good appetite and excellent digestion’.

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