Nowadays it is de rigueur for any self-respecting chef to produce a ‘book of the restaurant’. But is it reasonable to expect that chefs should not only source their produce and cook and present it, but also write well? Despite the persistent exclamatory punctuation and the exhausting family references, Simone’s recipes are clearly set out and explained, and there is interesting contextual and regional information imparted on Umbrian and alpine Victorian food and produce. In addition to the obligatory photographs of completed dishes, there are many more of Umbria and Bright, of produce and people. Unhelpfully, the photographs of these appealing places and magnificent buildings are not captioned.

This is a collection of recipes for those who love to cook and who enjoy spending time in the kitchen. Since much of this is seasonal fare, the delicious-sounding recipes with figs and chestnuts will have to wait until they reappear at the market. To eat Simone’s distinctive food at the source, it is well worth the visit to her eponymous restaurant in the picturesque Ovens Valley, where she has recreated her bit of Umbria.